Monday 11 May 2020

BREAKING - IS THIS IT?

At the weekend, I virtually attended the Field of Cloth of Gold 500 event run by The Tudor Travel Guide. One of the guest speakers was Dr Maria Hayward (a clothing historian) who was talking about Clothing and Textiles from the Field of Cloth of Gold event back in 1520.

She mentioned that an item of clothing survives that was taken to the Field of Cloth of Gold event, which was not commissioned by Henry VIII, but by his father Henry VII. The stonyhurst vestment from the V&A.


Now I visited the V&A years ago, and saw a vestment from the reign of Henrv VII on display. On the spot I speculated, put forward, and proposed, could this be the vestment taken to the Field of Cloth of Gold? (Image 1, 2 and 3). It certainly was opulent enough for such an event.
Image 1 - The Stonyhurst Cope
Image 2 - Detail of the Cope
Image 3 - Item Description

There was a niggle at the back of my mind about this though, so I pulled two of my historical clothing books out - 'Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Dr Maria Hayward', and 'Tudor Fashion by Eleri Lynn'. 


Now, Maria comments in her book that '.. the Stonyhurst vestments purchased by Henry VII for his chantry in Westminster Abbey. A set of 29 copes and chasubles was ordered, but only a single cope, a chasuble and chalice veil have survived.' It then links to figure 5.3 in Maria's book showing the exact same cope I had seen at the Victoria and Albert Museum ages ago (Chapter: Establishing the House of Tudor, p.79).


Makes sense so far right.. well no.. let me put the lovely little niggle in your head that is now in mine!


In Eleri's book she shows two images of a Tudor vestment from Henry VII's reign (front and back). She notes with the vestment that 'most of the original set of 29 were destroyed during the reformation', and then you guessed it, she gives a location of Stonyhurst college (Chapter: Power and Meaning, P.63/64). The vestment is shown below (Image 4).



Image 4 - Image owner Eleri Lynn/Historic Royal Palaces.
Now the issue is, this is not the same vestment as the one Maria makes mention of in her book! But Maria did say there had been 3 items to survive out of the 29.

Again, this vestment is certainly opulent enough to warrant being taken to the Field of Cloth of Gold event, and whilst the pictures don't do the item justice, (as it would really shine due to the precious metals woven within it), it would also fit the description of what Maria mentions in her talk at the weekend about promoting the Tudor dynasty.

So, you know me well enough by now.. I obviously googled Stonyhurst College to try and find out more information on this subject.


Their website states the following (https://www.stonyhurst.ac.uk/open-to-the-public/historic-collections-archives-and-museum/collections/museum): 


'The College recorded its first acquisition in 1609 - a stunning 15th century cope and chasuble commissioned by Henry VII for royal occasions in Westminster Abbey.'


Well now, that description matches the location of it's initial intended use provided in Maria's book!


Did we just find it's sister?!?! Oh my goodness all! 


I think both of these vestments could have been/were at the Field of Cloth of Gold in 1520! I think Maria was referring to both of these in her talk, but noting only the location of one of them.

*EDIT - Added 12/05/2020*

Further research on the Stonyhurst college website has shown that the vestment mentioned by Eleri was in fact taken to the Field of Cloth of Gold event. The website states 'The first items arrived at the College in 1609; sumptuous 15th century cloth of gold and red silk damask velvet vestments, ordered by Henry VII for use in Westminster Abbey and taken by Henry VIII to the Field of Cloth of Gold.'  Link below: 

https://www.stonyhurst.ac.uk/open-to-the-public/historic-collections-archives-and-museum

Also, in Image 3 you can see that the cope has been lent to the Victoria and Albert Museum by Stonyhurst college. Therefore the cope and vestment are in the same collection, and both went to the Field of Cloth of Gold event back in 1520! What a great survival.. 

Also, as further confirmation of their existence at the event, Edward Hall, a writer from the period, makes reference to the vestments in, in his chronicle 'The Union of the Two Noble and Illustre Families of Lancastre and Yorke', when writing about the Field of Cloth of Gold. He writes '.. and all the Coopes and Vestementes so riche as might be prepared or bought in the city of Florens, for all the Coopes and Vestementes were but of one piece, so woven for the purpose, cloth of Tissue and powdered with red Roses purled with fine gold..'   (Book Section: The Triumphant Reign of King Henry VIII, the XII Yere).






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