Saturday 22 October 2022

16th Century Clothing Survivals

It is well known that clothing was frequently repurposed in the 16th Century due to it's great value, and because of this it would be easy to think that there are no extant examples in existence. Earlier on today I watched a video on youtube regarding sumptuary laws and they mentioned that there was only one example in existence, the burial gown of Eleonora di Toledo, which fortunately for us is not true. 

Below are just some complete extant examples within existence, which have survived better than Elenora's gown (there are of course individual pieces still in existence which would warrant a blog post on it's own):

1) Gown of the Countess Palatine Dorothea Sabina of Neuberg c.1598

This beautiful gown is made from an olive green silk velvet, and features a gold trim which has tarnished over time. It has hanging sleeves with a yellow slashed atlas silk lining. The underskirt is made from a green taffeta, and is decorated with silver lace. Dorothea Sabina of Palatinate-Neuberg died at the young age of 21, and was buried in this gown. Although in an Italian cut which was popular in Bavaria at the time, it embodies Spanish courtly fashion which was prevalent in Europe.

Image is copyright to the Bayerisches National Museum

Image is copyright to the Bayerisches National Museum

Image is copyright to the Bayerisches National Museum

2) The Pisa gown, c.1560

This beautiful Italian gown was made for one of the ladies in waiting of Eleonora of Toledo. It has been made from very fine crimson cut velvet, which has then been embroidered with gold trimmings and finished with red satin ribbons.

Image is copyright to the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale in Pisa.

Image is copyright to the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale in Pisa.

Image is copyright to the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale in Pisa.

3) Burial clothes of Don Garzia de'Medici c. 1562

Garzia de'Medici was a son of Cosimo de'Medici and Eleonora di Toledo, the Duke and Duchess of Florence, and subsequently died of malaria on a journey of the Tuscan coast. He was buried in this crimson satin doublet, which has been heavily embellished with gold thread, and red velvet/silk trunk hose, also heavily embellished in gold thread to match.

Image copyright to the Uffizi Gallery

4) The Wedding Dress of Queen Mary of Haspburg, c.1520

This dress is made from two different silk damask fabrics and features long narrow sleeves. The open bodice shows a pleated chemise with silver embroidery at the neckline.

Image is copyright to the Hungarian National Museum

Thanks to these rare survivors we are able to get a better idea as to the type of fabrics they used for clothing back in the 16th Century, and the cut of them. We can also see how they were constructed, which we wouldn't be able to get from portraiture/inventories etc. alone. 

Sources Consulted:

1) https://www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de/en/collection/highlights/00224872

2) https://www.facebook.com/Museo-Nazionale-di-Palazzo-Reale-Pisa-119376494902105

3) https://www.uffizi.it/en/artworks/burial-clothes-of-don-garzia-de-medici-doublet-with-breeches-surcoat

4) https://mnm.hu/en/collections/historical-repository/textile-collection

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